Best is back. Mark Best that is.
In 2012 Best ran off to Melbourne to open Pei Modern. All us Sydneysiders were terribly jealous that the chef’s attentions strayed south. Well, take that Melbourne, Sydney now has two Mark Best kitchens.
Marque has and will always be magical, but now we have our very own Pei Modern.
The foyer of the Four Seasons is now home to the brand spanking new Pei Modern. The kitchen opened on the 15th October, although the burners didn’t really stop, with a very quick turnover from its predecessor The Woods, which is to thank for the wood fired grill and oven.
Melbourne Pei Modern Head Chef Matt Germanchis is currently at the helm for the critical first year, with Best very much involved. On opening night both chefs were in the kitchen. The original open plan kitchen has been opened up further so we can get an even better sticky beak.
From here come big copper fry pans filled with fall-off-the-bone Milly Hill lamb shoulder (cooked and dressed in chamomile), plates of glossy, fresh Burrata and egg yolk jam salad and piles of surf clams filled with fermented corn.
A few of the Melbourne favourites have made the trip north – the lamb shoulder, delicate Casarecce and chicken dumplings and the duck egg Sauternes custard to name a few.
MasterChef contestant and pastry princess Kylie Millar is in charge of desserts, and is all over the task. Her tempered chards of chocolate tart are delicate and delicious, the sorrel sorbet is a splash of vibrant colour and flavour and the spiced doughnuts are set to be on every sweet tooth’s must-try list.
With tables filling up fast, and Christmas parties on the horizon, don’t wait too long before checking this gem out.
Pei Modern Sydney
Four Seasons Hotel, 199 George St, Sydney 2000
(02) 02 9250 3160