Bistronomie by OK – French flavours meets affordable luxury dining on Crown Street

‘Affordable luxury’ sounds like an oxymoron, right? But here we are, seated by the window on Crown Street, next to Bills in Surry Hills. We have a happy vibes as we read the menu and its prices. French onion soup for $18? Wines for $12? Nooo, get outta here. Oops sorry, typo, get in here…

Bistronomie by OK is the latest gem from the OK Group, led by chef Opel Khan (also known for Métisse, Acqua E Farina, and Pizza Boccone). Born in Bangladesh, Khan wears many chef hats (or should we say chef whites?). His foodie journey is a passport stamped with flavors from around the world. Tonight its French.

We are here on a cold, wintery, wet Friday night. Like the best of French bistros, there is a glow looking in from outside – the space is handsome, adorned with hanging lights, chandeliers, marble tables and dark wooden chairs. Smart staff with French accents greet us and a glass of Loire Valley NV Veuve Tailhan blanc de blanc arrives. Minutes later so does a slice of baguette with smoked butter.

‘Shares’ offer a range of options. Two perfect halves of boiled egg arrive, the yolk is a fine orb of fluffy, eggy mayonnaise topped with a stylish fascinator-like parmesan wafer. It’s old school, decadent and so delicious. French onion soup is a classic, and here it is executed brilliantly with a well rounded beefy broth, a side of bread for dipping whilst long shoe laces of silky onion drip from our spoons.

Another ‘share’ we enjoy is a bowl of ravioli. Each square pasta pocket is a rocket of flavour generously stuffed with a rich duck leg confit lounging on a puddle of duck jus. Just when you think you can’t have enough duck, two glossy squares of duck breast arrive, pimped up with duck jus and paired with a delicate pastry confit duck leg tart – showing that three is not a crowd, but a cracking dish and number ($48). So much to j’adore.

From the ‘roast’ section I order the fish of the day – a crispy skin barra, all juicy with wilted winter greens & lemon beurre blanc sauce. Just for fun we order the fricassée of roasted mushrooms ($32). A single open cap mushroom is topped with fungi in a moody, earthy, creamy sauce. It’s a forest adventure, but size-wise I have massive fomo as it’s more starter than main, especially when I compare it to our neighbouring tables handsome chook. Darn. Next time.

Service does a solo dance of its own with each of our dishes arriving separately. I don’t mind watching my partner eat, but not when I can’t join in the fun. Good job that a bowl of crispy roast tatties keeps hunger at bay. Admitedly it’s their third week, and the floor team’s apologies are heartfelt.

Starters from $16, mains from $29, and desserts from $10—there’s love in the air at these prices. And let’s not forget the wines by the glass, starting at $12. Would I like another glass of Herringbone Hills Sauv Blanc? Oh, why not. Merci et bon soir!

Bristronome by OK, 355 Crown St, Surry Hills,NSW 2010
Hours: Dinner (Tue–Sat): 5:30 PM–12:00 AM

More venues from the Opel Group

About the author

Karen’s corporate job back in the UK had included entertaining clients in some of the best restaurants. This ultimately sparked a curiosity 'Just how do they do that?' (she confesses she was brought up on meat and vegetables, so this was all very exciting). Currently a Mr & Mrs Smith 'Tastemaker', she’s flashpacked around the world, learning about wine, experiencing different cultures and cuisines and had a two- year love affair with it all. Originally from England, she finally settled in Australia and continues to be besotted by food, wine and travel preferring to focus on the luxury end of town (thread count does matter).


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