Luxe for Less at Foveaux Street Dining


Moloko is cranking out ‘Sing it back’ as the 80’s and 90’s fest soundtrack progresses to ‘Pump up the Jam’. Wooden boards heaving with Bondi’s Nelson Road black rice and quinoa cob loaves land on your table as you kick back on the comfy red leather banquettes.

For fans of Darrell Felstead’s hatted Foveaux which has been shut for over eight months, this isn’t so much of a re-launch as a rebirth. Darrell’s fighting spirit has not only seen him beat his battle with manic depression but together with Sydney design studio, Loopcreative, he has found a new form of creativity and fun in not only the food but the dining experience and it’s all the better for it.

Sommelier Belinda Mackie (ex Sokyo) takes you on a sublime wine world tour with some secret finds like NV Larmandier-Bernier Blanc de Blanc champagne at just $11 a glass. Kick off downstairs in the secret den, Deli Wine Bar with its entrance on Sophia Street. Concrete floors, sandstone hewn blocks and green banker lamps illuminate bench pews. Opt for Cape Hawk oysters, wild boar salami and balsamic onions with a creamy Brillat Savarin cheese.


Upstairs the place is transformed. The casual dining angle really gets you thinking the food will be of a similar standard; it’s like a sensual whack around the chops with a smoked mackerel. This is hatted cuisine on steroids, yet at pub prices. Darrell’s genius shines. The robata grill imparts a Japanese smokiness to succulent octopus with black garlic and heirloom tomato. Try the confit crispy chicken wing with sweetcorn dust and Moreton Bay bug ceviche. Mains continue the ‘oohs’ and ‘ahs’ with a tent of shaved beetroot sheltering the lesser known Brook Trout, smoked eel and fermented dressing, whilst the roasted cauliflower with pomegranate and chimichurri provide plenty of Argentinian mojo. Finish off with dehydrated chocolate shards and smoked caramel custard and you too will feel reborn.

On the menu

Foveaux Street Dining
65-67 Foveaux Street, Surry Hills

(02) 9211 7752

About the author

Karen’s corporate job back in the UK had included entertaining clients in some of the best restaurants. This ultimately sparked a curiosity 'Just how do they do that?' (she confesses she was brought up on meat and vegetables, so this was all very exciting). Currently a Mr & Mrs Smith 'Tastemaker', she’s flashpacked around the world, learning about wine, experiencing different cultures and cuisines and had a two- year love affair with it all. Originally from England, she finally settled in Australia and continues to be besotted by food, wine and travel preferring to focus on the luxury end of town (thread count does matter).


Forrester’s Pub on the corner of Riley Street in Surry Hills has been a much loved watering hole for almost 100 years, it’s seen different owners, changes of prime ministers, generations of friends and family along with periods of being laid ‘fallow’ to rest. It took hospitality favourites, Applejack to rescue this local gem and bring it back to life. A budget of $1.5m doesn’t get you much these days but the renovation its both sensitive to its history and of this era, reflecting a new, more feminine, organic and lighter approach to interior design.

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