Moloko is cranking out ‘Sing it back’ as the 80’s and 90’s fest soundtrack progresses to ‘Pump up the Jam’. Wooden boards heaving with Bondi’s Nelson Road black rice and quinoa cob loaves land on your table as you kick back on the comfy red leather banquettes.
For fans of Darrell Felstead’s hatted Foveaux which has been shut for over eight months, this isn’t so much of a re-launch as a rebirth. Darrell’s fighting spirit has not only seen him beat his battle with manic depression but together with Sydney design studio, Loopcreative, he has found a new form of creativity and fun in not only the food but the dining experience and it’s all the better for it.
Sommelier Belinda Mackie (ex Sokyo) takes you on a sublime wine world tour with some secret finds like NV Larmandier-Bernier Blanc de Blanc champagne at just $11 a glass. Kick off downstairs in the secret den, Deli Wine Bar with its entrance on Sophia Street. Concrete floors, sandstone hewn blocks and green banker lamps illuminate bench pews. Opt for Cape Hawk oysters, wild boar salami and balsamic onions with a creamy Brillat Savarin cheese.
Upstairs the place is transformed. The casual dining angle really gets you thinking the food will be of a similar standard; it’s like a sensual whack around the chops with a smoked mackerel. This is hatted cuisine on steroids, yet at pub prices. Darrell’s genius shines. The robata grill imparts a Japanese smokiness to succulent octopus with black garlic and heirloom tomato. Try the confit crispy chicken wing with sweetcorn dust and Moreton Bay bug ceviche. Mains continue the ‘oohs’ and ‘ahs’ with a tent of shaved beetroot sheltering the lesser known Brook Trout, smoked eel and fermented dressing, whilst the roasted cauliflower with pomegranate and chimichurri provide plenty of Argentinian mojo. Finish off with dehydrated chocolate shards and smoked caramel custard and you too will feel reborn.
On the menu
Foveaux Street Dining
65-67 Foveaux Street, Surry Hills
(02) 9211 7752