Hotel Review: The Porter House Hotel twins old world glamour and modern design with a kick-ass cocktail bar and restaurant to boot!

This must be one of our favourite new hotels for 2022. Through the generations we have seen collaborations bringing the old world and the new together from fashion to art and now a hotel. We spend 24 glorious hours here and this is why we loved it.

The History 
Think Ying (young) and Yang (older). The original heritage building on the right of the entrance walkway was first commissioned in 1876, starting life as Dixson & Sons tobacco factory and warehouse, before furniture manufacturers WW Campbell & Co and the famous leather merchants George Johnson & Sons later took up residence in 1891. 

The left hand side of the building is designed by Angelo Candalepas (lead architect of the upcoming National Gallery of Victoria), The Porterhouse occuupies 10 floors of the new tower, built alongside the old building. With a nod to history, it takes its design cues with bold oval windows which create a new way to view Sydney.

The Arrival
The photos don’t really do it justice, and to be honest reading about the hotel being made up of two buildings confused the hell out of me, but now I am here I get it.

A new kind of reception which feels more like a bar or restaurant

Entry is from Castlereagh Street. I am not sure which door to go through and I pass what looks like the entry to a laneway with enormous portcullis-style grey metal doors. Am I walking down a street or a corridor? There is a range of historical memorabilia in glass cabinets and at the end of the walkway I am warmly greeted and escorted to the reception area to the right as glass sliding doors pull back and I step back in time…

It’s a beautiful space. It’s hard to take in all the design details. A chair is immediately pulled out for me as we sit across from each other on a low table. The staff explain all the levels and dining areas. My brain is trying to hold onto all the info. New building = hotel rooms, gym and rooftop pool on level 11, then all the foodie, drinks and dining stuff is in the original building. Check! Some levels (level 1) allow you to shift buildings, others you need to go to reception, walk across to the other building and go up the lift.. Mmmm got it?

Henry’s Bread and Wine dining area

Henry’s Bread and Wine
Whilst all this is being explained to me, what is distracting is the fun happening behind reception – it’s called Henry’s Bread & Wine.  It feels like stepping back into an age of European glamour. Gold trimmed marble bar, with fernery and dried flowers tumbling from the top shelves with lush green high chairs, columns and sumptuous booths. Whether you are a guest or passerby this is a place that makes you want to hang out and enjoy. 

Art in the hotel corridors

The Room – The One Bedroom Suite 702
A silent ride in the elevator (in the new building) takes us to level seven and suite 702 is just a hop, skip, soft padded carpet walk and swipe card away. 

It’s a beautiful one bedroom suite. It is set out into three chambers which is a smart design feature as it gives you control over your living style. You can slide doors creating openness or intimacy. The first thing that hits me is the colour palette; its soft, femine and textural.

The first room hosts a large caramel leather sofa with a singular pink circular cushion. The TV is sunken into the wall with a thoughtful shelf below holding the iport tablet.  I settle into the comfy grey armchair as I can stash my glass of wine, put my feet up on the marble table and watch a movie on the ridiculously enormous screen. The iport is a tablet which operates as a butler for the next 24hrs of our stay.

Curved windows in the accomodation part of the hotel

Wooden floors stretch the entire space. Oh! those curved windows! It has me feeling like I have stepped into a Barbarella movie, or I am in a medieval castle. Soft drapes are electronically controlled and ensure privacy yet retaining peekaboo views on to the park and cenotaph.

Ipad butlers are becoming more common, but most in my experience are a bit clunky from menus to the range of things they do . The welcome screen offers room controls first ( lights temp and curtains!!), TV, Entertainment, restaurants, service experiences, promotions feedback and more. 

Dining & work area – Sliding doors can be pulled shut to give you privacy if you want this as your work area, dining or simply want to read when your buddy might be keen on the latest episode of Netflix Crown or Yellowstone. I really like that the wardrobes and minibar are here behind grey padded leather panel doors with soft curves which stretch to high ceilings. Behind the first wardrobe door is a revelation. A pair of oh so slinky silky rose gold pouches contain his and hers slippers whilst the pull out shelving reveals… shock, what-no-way – Yeesssss!! In its own little pouch are hair straighteners zippity doo dah! Along with a high end Remington steamer…. Be gone the faff of ugly ironing boards that rip your nails out and daggy irons. This is so cool!

The Mini bar – is baron, nothing but a little carton of milk, our Iport can whisk us up drinks in minutes but, when you just want to indulge the devil on your shoulder saying GO ON have a sneaky wine, well you can’t you have to order then wait.

Kingsize Bed

The Bedroom:  Is behind another sliding door. It is understatedly dressed. It doesn’t need to show off. Pillows three deep and a stunning curved bedhead that is like a furniture hug wrapping its arms around you with circular wooden side tables. All our USB dreams are fulfilled with lots of ports to charge items.

Double trouble, beautiful robes, slippers and toiletries

The Bathroom: Also follows the chamber of three method. There is no door to the double sink bathroom, but then room after room opens up; push the glass door and a large rainshower appears, then the next room is a homage to the standalone bathtub with a wooden bath rack, salts and a magic mirror aka tv. Unlike the speed of filling many hotel baths which means you could complete a PHD  thesis or Twilight series before it’s full, this is ready to go in 5 mins. Divine. It is fab to see Appelles full size toiletries in the bath, shower and sink area. The toilet is a separate cubicle off to the left from the sink area.

Dixon & Sons; Main Dining area with views to the bar

The Restaurant: Dixon & Sons
We press ‘1’ on the elevator and it allows us to join the heritage side without going through reception. Dixons really comes into its element at night, flickering lights, soft brickwork, those beautiful arched windows, it feels warm, homely, sexy and smells awesome thanks to incense burning as you arrive. 

It’s headed up by Chef Emrys (ex Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe, Qualia and Josh Niland’s celebrated Fish Butchery). His food is all about local sourcing, classic technique with some Asian spins. 

Beef tartare

We are seated close to the windows and soon the dishes are arriving after a lovely glass of Tattinger. Starters arrive. The venison tartare is a structural masterpiece with small cubes of venison tumbled with buttermilk and macadamias whilst fried saltbush leaves cover the dish, in a peak-a-boo game revealing the goodness underneath. It’s original and creative.

Perhaps our favourite dish of the night is also a twist on the norm. Yamba prawns are grilled, split and lay on a bed of skordalia. It’s topped with an insanely brilliant XO crumb, not with scallops, but the offcuts of charcuterie. It’s so delicious we are licking hands, shells and there is not a skerrick of food left. Sheer brilliance and happiness on a plate. It’s a delight to see turkey on a menu outside of Christmas and it is a homage to celebration with three large juicy slow cooked slices with a yuzu miso sauce and dobs of apricot stuffing. The white onion risotto is cooked perfectly with the right amount of bite. It’s a delicate flavour, oozy with raclette but overpowered by too much black garlic vinaigrette on our serving. Sides of fried brussel sprouts and Mayan Gold potatoes are so good you could have them as mains. Instead of dessert we head upstairs to the cocktail bar…

Good morning chickpea fritters

Note: we return for breakfast in the morning for jersey brie omelette topped with prosciutto, along with a chickpea and cabbage fritters along with a mighty fine coffee. 

Grrrr! Hello luvva! Could this be the sexiest, comfiest bar in Sydney?

The Cocktail Bar – Spice Trader
Ahoy Mateys! Every bar in this building is a homage to its history. Here, Spice Trader celebrates the grand merchant showcasing the spice trail. We step up to the bar which is illuminated from below with sunken objects ranging from broken chinese plates to spices which are encased inside the bar, it’s like we are drinking history in.

The DJ is spinning tunes and the staff are attentive, knowledgeable and so proud of this bar with good reason, it’s sexy, and sooo comfortable. Doona please? We take a round booth and order a Penicillin with Ferrand Cognac and a Talisker float along with a Margarita with Don Julio Blancois which is deliciously salted.

The dish we can’t stop thinking about – scallop and bug prawn toasts…

I don’t mind admitting that the Scallop and Bay Bug toast almost brought me to my knees in happiness. It’s one of the best things I have eaten this year. In fact, I can’t stop thinking about it. Take a prawn toast and amp it up with soft, sweet bug flesh, topped with black and white sesame seeds. It’s insanely good, and worth going to the bar for even if you don’t like cocktails! Equally inventive are the little wedges of miso tempura eggplant dunked into whipped tofu with burnt onion ash. Oh my! Literally this is one of the best bars in Sydney right now. 

The Verdict
What we are totally addicted to: The juxtaposition of modernity and heritage has been done so well. Both parts of the building are respectful to each other. Food, service and our suite were all world class, but the design really steals the show in a heart stopping way. Romantic, nostalgic, creative and sensitive. Porterhouse is unique in its inner and outer beauty. Oh and a quiet night’s sleep too!

What do we need to be more addicted?: The gym is great on the top floor and the swimming pool is also on the rooftop but it’s a little soulless right now, with some planting and more design the rooftop really could be a great place to hang out and enjoy the summer

The Porterhouse Hotel https://theporterhouse.com.au/,
Address – 203 Castlereagh St, Sydney
Dixon & Sons – Hours; Breakfast Mon- Fri 7am-10am, Sat-Sun 7am-10.30am, Dinner Thurs-Sat 6pm-9.30pm
Spice Trader – Level 3aThurs 5-11pm, Fr-Sat 5pm-midnight

About the author

Karen’s corporate job back in the UK had included entertaining clients in some of the best restaurants. This ultimately sparked a curiosity 'Just how do they do that?' (she confesses she was brought up on meat and vegetables, so this was all very exciting). Currently a Mr & Mrs Smith 'Tastemaker', she’s flashpacked around the world, learning about wine, experiencing different cultures and cuisines and had a two- year love affair with it all. Originally from England, she finally settled in Australia and continues to be besotted by food, wine and travel preferring to focus on the luxury end of town (thread count does matter).