Like a scene from Benjamin Button, Food Society has undergone a miraculous transformation where the years have passed and reverse aging has taken place. What was affectionately known as Grandma’s house now looks like a groovy new pad that a couple of newlyweds have just moved into.
With its chandeliers, wingback chairs, pine tables, plants and sit up Vodka bar its more Scandinavia cool crossed with Polish chic than chintz. The boys are dressed in dapper short sleeves shirts with pastel grey bow ties. When you include the addition of their hot new young chef Marcel Osato (ex Sugar Room, Merivale) perhaps it’s no surprise that there are a lot of women dining here.
The hearty food now has a lighter touch and more than a few surprises. If you love dumplings, try the East European version – Pierogi either three cheese and duck or a potato and bacon option with pickled mushrooms buttermilk and red wine vinegar dressing. Share plates get creative; golden cubes of what looks like fried tofu is actually haloumi and tapioca a tasty combo with a tomato relish. Snowdrops of Bulgarian feta custard are accompanied by sails of brick pastry and then there is the duck breast schnitzel, who would have thought?
You CANNOT leave this restaurant (yes we know it’s shouty capitals) without trying their mind blowing, life altering signature dish. It looks like a tumble of juicy calamari; spear one, lift it up to the candle light and admire the masterpiece…of cauliflower! It’s a floret of crispy, caramalised heaven due to a red wine vinegar reduction. It was so good we ordered another! A delightful dish of tiny fresh spatzle and fresh local prawns is another showstopper with its luxurious egg yolk dressing. Give the cocktail menu a workout with an espresso and walnut martini or choose a Stara Rakija apricot aperitif.
If this is what happens with aging then we say bring on the next 5 years.
91 Riley St. Darlinghurst, Sydney 2010
02 8090 3462