Camperdown Commons Restaurant – Sustainable, local and rollicking great value unearthed. Ooh! & the best roast chicken dish in town

Just picture the perfect moment, a world away from our busy city. You are drinking a glass of rosé , overlooking paddocks of well tended farm land, rows and rows of vegetables with their leafy greens wafting in the days fading sunshine. The fire pit is glowing, as it’s flames lick the cool air, birds are flying overhead and all around you is the hum of others having fun.

The Yard

We could be in the Yarra Valley, Margaret River or even the Hunter, but no. We are here at Camperdown Commons, less than 100m from busy Parramatta Road.

Canterbury-Hurlstone Park RSL in consultation with Inner West Council transformed the former bowling green by working with Pocket City farms to create the first urban farm of its kind in Sydney. For the number nerds out there – this is 1200m2 of ecological market garden growing vegetables for the local community with a community food forest, composting program, propagation greenhouse and native bees.

The Commons comprises several distinct sections. There’s the farm, a Café that serves breakfast options, The Yard, where Saturdays come alive with Spits & Beats, and Sundays serenade patrons with soulful live music. Oh! and let’s not forget the new restaurant.

We enter off the street and the drama begins with a catwalk strut down the main strip. Paddocks lay to our right and left as we step through an honour guard of wooden arches which will sparkle at night with hundreds of fairy lights. In the distance we can see The Yard. It’s packed with people, there is a fire pit, chairs randomly placed for groups to huddle. The spit roast finished a while ago. The only tell-tale signs are the soft glowing embers and empty plates…

Main dinging area of the restaurant

The restaurant is beautiful. Open wooden beams, and banquet seating and paddock views bring the farmland in. The kitchen glows at one end of the restaurant as glasses of wine arrive at a knock out price of $12 a glass. These are not ‘any’ wines; they are from award winning and boutique vineyards such as Lark Hill in Canberra, Nick Spencer and Two Hands in Barossa. Even to go wine tasting at these vineyards will now cost you more than what they charge here for a glass.

Head Chef Arin (ex Fairmont Resort, Potting Shed at The Grounds, Cupitt’s Winery on NSW south coast, Dead Ringer) grew up in the Blue Mountains and developed his passion for paddock to plate through his different roles. Over the next hour or so, his life’s work shines in front of us, everything he lived, loved and learned is on a plate. With all vegetables for the restaurant sourced a bread roll throw away.

‘Smalls’ arrive. In front of us is a plate of grilled charry, lemony, garlicky sardines on toasted sourdough ($18). Flecks of herbs and chilli top it off. It’s bloomin good. Portobello mushrooms ($16) are confited with heaps of garlic and thyme, served with three thick slices of halloumi flavoured with lemon oil. Woozers.

The pork belly is a poster child of three essential commandments. First – you must nail the crispy crackle. Second – rendered fattiness and third, juicy pork which melts in the mouth. It’s accompanied by simple wilted greens on the side. At $18 this starter is bigger than many mains in other places and infinitely better.

Mains commence with half an eggplant lounging on a mash of smoked creamed almonds. It’s decorated with fresh oregano leaves and a swirl of apple balsamic which cuts through the richness with a touch of acidity. The barramundi is glistening and majestically golden. It’s a forkful of flavours – sweetness from roasted capsicum peperonata, lemon, basil, olive oil and perfectly cooked.

Yes, we love you roasted, corn fed chicken

I am saving the best till last (though my dining chums may argue the beef rib won out), but Hello Sydney, this chicken is fair dinkum the best dish in our state right now and its $28. Wot? You can’t even get an average schnitty in many pubs for that. So say ‘hello luvva! This is one glorious corn-fed chook, roasted to suntanned Bondi bronzed perfection. It gets better with the generosity of butter poached mushrooms, lemon and thyme on the same plate. I-JUST-LOVE-THIS-PLACE. We order sides of crunchy roast potato in herbs and garlic butter ($12) and broccolini with lemon and garlic oil.

‘Given we are already smitten. It feels rude to order more, but we do. ‘Afters’ are enjoyable, playful and fun – the cheesecake is deconstructed with a quenelle of glossy cheesecake on a bed of madadamia nuts, orange zest and sea salt. For anyone who loves lemon meringue pie the coconut mousse with passion fruit is the bomb.

Can insanely great food, exceptional wine, and remarkable value coexist in one dining venue? At Camperdown Commons, they certainly do—and that’s what sets this place apart. It’s a neighbourhood gem to beat all others – a blend of urban farming and culinary prowess which let’s the food do the talking. It’s one I want to return to listen to again and again.

CAMPERDOWN.COMMONS 31A Mallett St, Camperdown, NSW 326
The Cafe – Open daily from 7:30am-2pm
The Yard – Fri & Sat 12pm-8pm, Sun 12pm-5pm
The Dining Room Restaurant -Fri & Sat 12pm-8pm, Sun 12pm-6pm

About the author

Karen’s corporate job back in the UK had included entertaining clients in some of the best restaurants. This ultimately sparked a curiosity 'Just how do they do that?' (she confesses she was brought up on meat and vegetables, so this was all very exciting). Currently a Mr & Mrs Smith 'Tastemaker', she’s flashpacked around the world, learning about wine, experiencing different cultures and cuisines and had a two- year love affair with it all. Originally from England, she finally settled in Australia and continues to be besotted by food, wine and travel preferring to focus on the luxury end of town (thread count does matter).

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