With the landslide of achingly hip diners opening lately, it’s nice to see an addition to the neighbourhood that proves you don’t have serve up buffalo wings to have a culinary pulse in this town.

A statement on the art of dining, The Devonshire is an intimate space that balances a relaxed atmosphere, with an element of polish in its eclectic wall of vintage mirrors, smart linen tables and sparkling service.

A partnership between Restaurant Balzac’s Matt Kemp (an ex-pat Brit) and Jeremy Bentley (back from a four-year stint at London’s The Square), it’s no surprise then, that The Devonshire’s take on modern British cuisine is so good. The veal sweetbread and tongue, on a slaw of Brussels sprouts makes a killer dish as the temperature drops, while the impressively theatrical bird’s nest of crispy quail eggs, confit legs and breast is also worth a look in.

Move onto a main of pork, done three ways – a slow-roasted shoulder, sous vide belly and roasted-to-order loin, served with apple jelly and pumpkin puree: It’s a celebration of the beast that’s equally balanced and heartwarming.

Whatever you do though, make sure you leave room for The Devonshire Tea; a crème brulee, served in a teacup, alongside scone flavoured ice-cream, cherry jam and whipped cream – a witty take on a classic that’s a destined favourite.

The Devonshire; chalk it up to a win.

The Devonshire
204 Devonshire Street, Surry Hills 2010
T: 9698 9427