Four is a Charm

It started with Ben Harper and Iggy’s bread, and just got better from there. Is that even possible?

The answer is ‘yes’ at 4Fourteen – Colin Fassnidge’s (aka Four in Hand and Paddington Arms) new Surry Hills joint at the old Le Pan Quotidien site at 414 Bourke Street (clever cookie).

Posh industrial meets chic warehouse at this 64-seater where exposed brick and timber beams are paired with marble bar tops and bentwood chairs.

Make a beeline for a seat at the bustling open kitchen and watch the contingent get to work – shucking, searing, grilling, roasting. It’s crazy and calm, all at once.

Settle in with a cocktail before making a start on the food. Menus come clipped to old cork placemats and are divided into sections; fish, meat, salads and starches, and dessert. It’s easy – order as much as you can stomach and share everything. 

Freshly shucked Clair de Lune oysters come served on a bed of seashells and pebbles and taste of the ocean (oh, how very nostalgic) while seared bonito with fennel juice, celery and vanilla buttermilk is minimal and delicate.

Moving on, it’s hard to go past Fassnidge’s lamb breast or suckling pig. For the hard-core carnivores, have a stab at the licorice ‘Beef and Bone’ (for two) served in a cast iron pot complete with beef brisket, beef tongue, deep-fried beef marrow and beef bone. The pescetarians among us will love the roast Spanish mackerel and seafood stew.

Things continue to escalate with dessert. Try the ‘Bounty’ – a deconstructed chocolate and coconut wonderland or ‘Donut and Apple’ featuring fluffy donut balls rolled in cinnamon sugar with apple purée and panna cotta.

Four’s a charm at this Surry Hills newbie.

414 Bourke Street, Surry Hills 2010
T: 02 9331 5399

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