We spend our life saying ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’. It could be a handshake, hug, peck on the cheek, doubles if you’re French, triples if you’re Dutch (that’s a lot of kissing!). Recently Mosman locals have said au revoir to fine diner Bistro Moncur.
Across Sydney we have jilted fine dining, preferring more approachable, affordable experiences. Part of Bistro Moncur Mosman’s takeover by Tilley & Wills Hotels is about getting back that intimacy. Say bonjour to Bistro Mosman. Mwah!
It’s a pretty space – if you had a rich aunt, the odds are this is the kind of garden conservatory you would be having afternoon tea in, on Wedgewood China of course. Soaring ceilings, sage colours, marble, flagstone floor tiles and wooden tables and chairs – you get the picture.
The team is largely unchanged; led by Head chef Jon Trouillet (ex-Jules Vernes in the Eiffel Tower) spins out dishes that don’t miss a heartbeat, though yours may well do.
Service is faultless. As two glasses of Boulanger arrive, it’s as if Mary Poppins read our minds. We’re going double soufflé tonight (starters and desserts). We’re swept off our feet immediately by a French onion soufflé gratin with thyme infused cream. It’s dreamy and fluffy, the puddle of sauce is oh so slightly caramalised. There’s a race to the finish, even though the Barossa chicken liver pate with golden slices of brioche is calling. “Les plats principaux” is a French party of crushed peas, brown butter, capers and croutons sitting under a glorious crispy skin Cone Bay Barramundi whilst the half moon of duck breast is the ying to the yang of carrot purée , glazed heirloom carrots and blood orange sauce. Ordering pasta at a French restaurant seems counterintuitive but do it – lashings of spanner crab is woven through a delicate confit garlic and roma tomato sauce with linguine. Mash? French Fries? Oui!
The finale has to be the suntanned mango soufflé with a dusting of icing sugar, partnered with crème anglaise and mango sorbet. Leave your twin set at home, Bistro Mosman is modern, kissable food and gives us a new reason to love the postcode 2008.
76 Middle Head Road, Mosman
Lunch: Thursday-Sunday 12:00pm-3:00pm
Dinner: Tuesday-Sunday 5:30pm-late
See website for specials – we recommend the $35 Sunday French roast or a cracking $59 3 course dinner on Tuesdays