You know that holiday you’ve been promising yourself? Wandering the markets of Bangkok, eating rice cakes in Laos and mopping up a Rendang curry with a flaky roti on the streets in Penang; well it can wait!
Sugarcane’s reinvention kicks off with the edgy urban Asian street art designed by Giant (Red Lantern & Chow Eating House) creating a colour explosion of neon graffiti along with the odd painted elephant. The ultimate ceiling cushions have been thoughtfully created by hundreds of hanging Thai silk bags – rather handy if your taste buds send you hurtling skywards.
Chef and owner Milan Strbac’s time at Marque and Longrain coupled with annual research trips to Asia frolic playfully between innovation and authenticity but there’s not much familiar on the menu (this is in your favour).
‘Shared’ highlights include a triangular tower of crab, apple, coconut and lime on a crunchy tortilla and a not to be missed marvel of crispy whole fried eggs lounging in caramel and black vinegar. Non sharers, try the canapé style rice cake with prawns and caramalised sugarcane dressing. Pad Thai takes on a new dimension thanks to delectable slices of schnitzel cum kagarage style chicken creating a new textural experience, arguably only a blood plum sauce could make this chick one step better, perhaps with a serving of silky braised eggplant.
Extra sparkle is provided by a natty wine and cocktail list created from mates whose roaming’s include Ms Gs, 10 William Street and Chiswick. So there’s no need to buckle up, stow your tray tables away and turn off all electrical devices. Just sit back and enjoy one hell of an Asian ride.
40A Reservoir Street, Surry Hills, Sydney
Wednesday to Friday between 12 – 2:30pm, for drinks from 5pm and dinner between 6 – 10pm Monday to Saturday