When you take over a venue with as many past lives as 312 Drummond St in Carlton, you’ve got big shoes to fill. What did the team from The Town Mouse do?
They didn’t add on, and go big and bold like the new Brunetti around the corner. They paired back, pulling out a faux ceiling and opening up an interesting space.
Yes, there’s another level coming (just in time for warmer weather) which will double covers, but right now things are nice and cosy.
Solo diners and couples tend to hang out at the curved bar, where places are set for a quick bite to eat, and groups settle onto stools at the high tables around the walls.
In an instant owner Christian McCabe makes everyone feel at home. Hopping across the pond after the success of Matterhorn in New Zealand, he’s clearly thriving in Melbourne’s foodie fun. With sister McCabe, Jay Comeskey and Chef Dave Verheul, he’s keeping the focus of The Town Mouse on good food, good wine and good company.
We suggest you start with crunchy goats cheese profiteroles, pulled from a pool of caraway, thyme and The Town Mouse honey – straight from the rooftop beehives. Next is glossy calamari shaved down to little bundles you’d mistake for linguine, with drops of oyster cream.
The dish to dine is split between a melt-in-your-mouth pork jowl with charred octopus and swirls of squid ink, and according to McCabe, “the vegetarian’s roast”, a half red cabbage slow roasted with prunes and red apple, drizzled in parmesan. The chunk of cabbage arrives at the table and no doubt cleaned off the plate quick.
Chef Dave Verhuel is steering away from stodgy and sticking to seasonal flavours. The dishes are delicate – a chocolate tart with thai flavours has a peanut and white chocolate shell that cracks open to ooze chocolate ganache onto chilli crumble.
If you’re after a meal that’s nowhere near cookie cutter, but won’t break the budget, try out The Town Mouse.
The Town Mouse Bar & Restaurant
Lunch and dinner, Weds-Sunday
312 Drummond Street Carlton
T: 03 9347 3312
