The tranquility of the revered Woolloomooloo strip of harbourside restaurants is in stark contrast to the hubbub of the bright lights of the big city that glisten across the still water, creating a romantic and very nearly “almost French”, feel.
This environmental ambience suits the flavour combination of Bellevue Woolloomooloo, sister restaurant to the Bellevue Cottage in Balmain. The best of French lightly caressed with Japanese influence, flavour and finesse.
It’s warm, stylish, and entirely unpretentious – the kind of place where a long lunch could very easily turn into dinner and dinner become a regular highlight.
We start, of course, with the Baguette à l’ancienne ($8) – a perfectly crusty loaf served warm with a generous pat of in-hour curated salted butter alongside olive oil. It’s deceptively simple as a proper beginning, slowing you down to savour the complexity of flavour, delivered perfectly.
The Crab Croquettes ($26) arrive next – golden shells encasing a silky, sea-kissed filling, served with saffron aioli that brings a whisper of spice and sunshine. They’re rich, but not heavy. Decadent, but not indulgent, classic and yet better, lighter and fresher to any other crab croquette you will have had before.
A slightly more Japanese Bellevue-Kyoto Tartar ($35) Angus fillet, daikon, pickled mustard, cilantro shallot dressing is a king of dishes. The daikon, in particular is a fresh addition that should really come the mainstay of French cuisine. This was likely my favourite – fresh, creamy, crunchy – all the elements that make for a comprehensive meal.
Moving into deeper territory, the Pork Belly Black Out ($31) makes a dramatic entrance. A glossy square of pork belly, slow-cooked until the fat becomes crackling, a background beat to your tastebud dance.
The Bar au Beurre Blanc ($45) is a study in subtlety. A delicate fillet of sea bass, swimming in a classic beurre blanc that’s been kissed with white wine and lemon. There’s no need for fireworks here – the sauce does the heavy lifting, and the fish responds with gentle flakes that fall apart on contact.
Dessert? Always.
The Crème Brûlée ($17) arrives with a perfect crack – the sugar shatters to reveal a custard infused with Pure Tahitian vanilla bean. A few sharp bursts of pomegranate that curves the edges of sweetness and adds an unusual and well received depth of flavour. Elegant. Minimal. Flawless – quite possibly the silkiest, richest, most flavourful Crème Brulee this side of the equator.
The Soufflé Hot Mousse au Chocolat ($17). It lands tall and trembling, straight from the oven, filled with molten chocolate and dark cherries hiding in the base like buried treasure. A spoonful is warm, intense, and slightly bitter – a proper grown-up ending to a perfectly poised meal.
Bellevue Woolloomooloo is what happens when technique, tradition, and taste all meet under one charming roof. Arrive hungry. Stay late. Order the Crème Brûlée.
