The Story
It was finally time to check out the new firehouse ANA in Double Bay, a curated blend of South American and Lebanese fusion that has recently opened on Cross st. It was with perfect timing, winter decided to make an untimely appearance. Wind gusts and horizontal rain was not what I had in mind for a long awaited and much needed night out.
ANA is the creation of Culinary Director Esmeralda Perez and entrepreneur Nathan Tito. Esmeralda named the restaurant after her grandmother a woman of Lebanese heritage who built her life in South America, and whose kitchen became the inspiration for everything you eat here. Fire, meat, and a deep respect for two very different culinary traditions, that is the thread running through every dish on the menu.
The Arrival
Upon arrival I was greeted by the lovely Paulina, immediately I was drawn to the soft lighting and warm terracotta hues, which were a contrast to the black-framed images and mirrors creating an atmosphere that was moody, intimate and effortlessly stylish.
Having arrived a little ahead of my plus one, I was shown to the most generous banquette – a deep, curving seat that almost took centre stage in the restaurant and was tucked nicely behind a curved wall, giving you a sense of privacy from the arriving guests.
Once my friend had arrived and after much chit-chat, we finally turned our attention to the drinks menu. We went with the Merida Old Fashioned to represent the South American soul of the restaurant and the Kefir Lima, a Lebanese-inspired cocktail for the other. Both were equally delicious and set the tone for the night.
The Food
After much deliberation we finally ordered our starters. The Sydney rock oysters arrived fresh in a mezcal and rose mignonette, a squeeze of lime was all they needed – clean, simple and the perfect opener.
The Kingfish ceviche was a standout from the first bite, we could’ve had another plate each. It was fresh, light and each mouthful literally dissolved in the mouth. The crunchy corn cut through the softness perfectly, adding texture, while the sumac lifted the whole dish. Lastly the fresh cut tortilla chips with guacamole, deceptively simple with the jalapeño giving it a clean heat and the guajillo oil a smoky depth that had us scraping the bowl.
Mains brought the fire in every sense. Roasted corn on the cob arrived charred and golden, topped with ribbons of grated cheese called queso fresco and chipotle crema – think elote, the Mexican street corn you didn’t know you needed. It was deliciously sweet and crunchy.
The wood-fired cauliflower was a standout, it arrived in a pool of salsa roja and habanero oil, charred on the edges and tender through the middle. We also couldn’t resist the brussels sprouts, they were lightly charred and caramelised, (exactly the way I love them) topped with crispy onions and drizzled with a spicy aioli.
The main event – the slow-cooked Birra Beef it was the kind of dish that earns its place at the top of any menu: rich and deeply flavoured, it arrived tender beyond measure, each forkful pulling away effortlessly in soft, yielding ribbons. We paired the mains with a glass each of the McLaren Vale – SC Pannell Tempranillo, bold and earthy and exactly what the brisket called for.
The Verdict
What are we Addicted to? The ambience, the decor and the Kingfish Ceviche was incredible, I’d definitely come back for that alone.
What do need to be more Addicted? As much as I love a generous banquette to sit on, I felt there was too much space between the back of the seat to the table to sit comfortably.
ANA Double Bay, 53 Cross St, Double Bay NSW 2028
Hours: Tuesday – Thursday from 5pm to 10:30pm, Friday 5pm – 11pm, Saturday 1pm – 11pm, Sunday 2pm -10:30pm. The venue is closed on Mondays.
