Keeping up with the times isn’t as easy as it looks from making sure we have the most current edition of Joe Rogan’s podcast to knowing whether jeans should be acid washed denim or that Vogue tells us now is the time to ‘let the joyful sequin mini dress’ back into our lives. Did it ever leave?
Upper North Shore favourite, the Greengate Hotel is also changing with the times. It may be fast approaching its 200th birthday, but it’s Greengate Terrace restaurant is leading the food fashion trends with a new menu lead by an ex-Aria team. If you missed the restaurant unveiling mid last year let us remind you: gone are the chesterfield sofas and walnut paneling. It is replaced with an elegant circular dining space divided by an open wall of glassware and planting. Bar on one side, dining on the other. It’s all soft colours, marble, wooden floors, aged brass and art deco pendant globes.
Head Chef, Robert O’Callaghan has launched a completely new menu with few items making it over into the new season. One we are glad they did is a bowl of fried semolina eggplant cubes tossed in Manuka honey and chilli. Where have these been all our lives? and why is no one else doing them? These poppable babies are pure genius, lighter than a zucchini fry, they are addictively good. Starters are creative, with a crispy block of polenta plated with purple cauliflower and raisin caper vinaigrette. Mooloolaba grilled prawns don’t need anything other than lemon and garlic to make them better. Its naked cooking and we like it.
Nova Scotia scallops of different sizes are arranged in a ring with furled ribbons of zucchini and pomegranate seeds. We like the fact they are not all uniform, we don’t all come in a size 10, so why should our seafood?
The lamb here is legendary and one they would pit themselves against others like Aria and Chiswick. However we opt for crispy skin Cone Bay Barramundi served with a generous puddle of salsa verde and cavolo nero. The roast duck has a tight meat structure and paired with peaches and hazelnuts.
Deserts of vanilla panna cotta with figs are bang on season and it’s hard to go past a crumble any day of the week, especially when it’s a medley of apple, pear and raspberries.
Let’s talk wines. Whilst they have great beers on tap, bottle and can; one of their secret weapons is the wine list. Hentley Farm Blanc de Noir is a stunning sparkling rarely seen by the glass, its dusky rose hue and complex flavour not your average Australian bubble. So too the Joseph Chromy Pinot Noir from Tasmania. If you want cocktails then try the cinnamon old fashioned.
It takes more than modern lines to keep up with modern times. The menu is sustainably sensitive and reflects the seasons, but not in a predictable way. Dining here is about experiencing one of Sydney’s most iconic pubs which has lasted from 1832 into the 21st century. It houses one of Sydney’s best hotels wine lists and offers service that feels like you are one of their community, even if you come some distance to be part of it.
Corner of Greengate Rd & Pacific Highway, Killara, 2071
Hours; Monday & Tuesday – 10am to 11pm, Wednesday to Saturday – 10am to 12 midnight, Sunday -10am to 10pm