If there is a spot which encapsulates everything the new food movement in Canberra has to offer, it’s A.Baker.

Serve your own ‘Two before Ten’ roasted coffee? Tick. Bake your own daily 16-20 hr organic sourdough milled wheat breads? Tick. Dedicated to the use of local produce which is dressed to impress? Tick. And illuminating the region’s winning wines not available even at the cellar door? Tick that too.

The fire of 2011 which famously ripped through the Diamont Hotel and much of the Nishi complex has given rise to a phoenix which has the coolest of urban grooves. The scars are honestly and proudly incorporated into the interior design reflecting its terrior approach to bringing the best out of everything with their chefs’ deft touch.

Morphing day through to night, it’s a bakery, café, restaurant and renegade underground speakeasy. Our pick is dinner. As the party gets going in the underground bar downstairs, tuck into Eden mussels on toast enlivened with ponzu and a dusting of horseradish or a 63 degree egg with freekah Bredbo black garlic and pecorino. Soft polenta is a hug on a plate with anchovy gremolata and flakes of smoked Murray cod. Sous vide corn fed chicken is a pretty picture with its brussel sprout leaves and shimeji mushroom friends, but the smoked Dutton Park duck is a worthy adversary.

You can feel the passion, artistry and technical approach to the execution of a sensory experience which is heightened by local wineries such as a stunning NV Gallagher sparkling (it will have you wondering why you still drink Verve). Don’t miss the chance to try and Eden Road ‘Long Road’ Chardonnay or a Lark Hill Auslese Riesling which enlivens the butterscotch bread and butter pudding with toasted marshmallow and popcorn panna cotta.

Some cities have already come of age; London, New York, Shanghai are all leading the way. Now Canberra is the latest home to gastronomic, artisan and design beauty.

A.Baker
NewActon Pavilion
Unit 2, 15 Edinburgh Ave Canberra ACT
(02) 6287 6150
www.abaker.com.au