George Colambaris and his merry men seem to be everywhere at the moment. Jimmy Grants, Gazi, Hellenic Republic number two and now The Press Club returns to the Melbourne dining scene.
So what has changed from the old to the new press? The space has been brought right back, with an intimate 10 tables making up the entire place. The ‘tables’ are more booth-like, with tan leather and gold lights over hanging. It feels very old world glamour, and we mean that in a good way.
The team use the development kitchen next door – Press Club Projects, to test out their culinary ideas and present them Monday to Friday both for lunch and dinner. Colambaris chose these opening hours deliberately so he could run the venue with the same team the whole time, and he has hand chosen the chosen few. They are those who are helping make his vision a reality. That vision? To present the best Hellenic experience in the world, to exceed customer’s expectations and to remind people every day that fine dining is not dead.
These points are proven well as two waiters serve each dish and menus start at two-course $50 minimum. The fun is kicked off with snap frozen basil smashed into a tomato consommé Martini and three bite-sized morsels, each served with equal amount of thought and skill behind them.
We take our hats off to Colambaris. He manages to bring us incredible food on both sides of the pay scale. He might also be reminding us that fine dining isn’t dead, it just needed a fresh perspective.
