Rooftop dining spaces are launching at a rate of knots. We have eaten on balconies, platforms, warehouses, carports even converted churches but a cave? Batman would be jealous of Glebe’s newest restaurant to open its glamorous doors. We don’t mind putting it out there – this is the best Indian restaurant in Sydney right now.
Formerly Darbar, this cavernous space has been transformed into an architectural beauty of arches, pillars and entertaining spaces. The brick ceiling shimmers with chandeliers and designer lights, a new circular bar showcases unique spirits like Old Monk Rum from India, artifacts from global travels side by side with chesterfield sofas and plush armchairs – this is a place to spend time with friends. Those celebrating a special occasion can simply follow the quirky purple illuminated “down to earth” sign to a new sub-basement function area.
It’s a rock star line up of talent; Head Chef Chanaka Nalin Gunasakarage (ex Flying Fish & Longrain’s Subcontinental) has worked with Michelin Star and Hatted Chefs. Pushp Mehra is front of house (ex IHG, Palazzo Versace and nominee TAA Rising Star 2017) and the team which brought us Spice Room in Circular Quay and Jewel of the Bay are behind it.
Lets talk food. Pappadums are reinvented into three flavours of crunchy wafer; turmeric, green pea and saffron dotted with aromatic salmon mouse. Contemporary flair continues with a bowl of creamy coconut, ginger and green chilli Kerelan Masala mussels with slices of charred garlic butter naan to mop every last drop – it’s a dish you will go home and dream about. Arancini balls arrive on a bed of crushed pappadums, crunch, pop and deliciously gooey filling of lentils, risotto rice parmesan and mozzarella and spices. Lovers of Flying Fish will fondly remember their fish curry; Chanaka pays homage to Sri Lanka with two fillets of crispy skin snapper, a side curb of skinned cherry tomatoes, translucent deep fried lotus root and curry leaves then the drama is released as the curry sauce is poured over to create perfection with a mint sambal. Add a dreamy palak paneer gnocchi and earth fired tandoor lamb barrah – it’s all just too good. Vegans and meat lovers are harmoniously looked after.
Cocktails are not normally high on the Indian agenda but Mexico meets India with a Smokey Tamarind Chigali. The cocktail glass is two halves; one bowl filled with smoke the other a mix of Mezcal, Cointreau and gentle jalapenos.
Maybe Batman was onto something, his batcave was a wonder of innovation and surprises, something Bhoomi shares and when you consider its eco and sustainable practices it lives up to its meaning – Mother Earth. So go pay homage.
134 Glebe Point Road, Glebe
Weds – Sun: 12pm-3pm