Four Seasons enters a new MODE of dining

Mode Kitchen and Bar Four SeasonsFour Seasons by name and by nature. We are the lucky ones who have a chance to experience its latest triumph of tradition over adaptability to weather the changes in the Sydney dining scene.

We first started noticing Four Seasons with when it snapped up Hamish Ingram and launched a bold new dining concept with fire called WOODS, then came Pei Modern with Mark Best, to be replaced by pop up ‘Tables’ who kept the punters happy till today and now MODE.

This is more than simply a change of pans. The ground floor has gone through a metamorphosis, walk up the ramp to be greeted by a green illuminated marble bar. You’ll be dining inside a glass chrysalis, hidden from the outside world transporting you to a 1920’s era. A stunning central bronzed bar breaks the dining areas into different pockets of light, intimacy and drama. Touches such as the 18 pearl-like Tom Dixon pendant lights and the chef’s table make the most of the open kitchen led by Head Chef Francesco Mannelli (ex Balla, Bistrode CBD and EST).

Mode Kitchen and Bar Four Seasons Reposado SourNo surprise that the menu is all about produce, technique and sourcing. Sydney has lost its love of fine dining but this is timeless finesse and elegance on a plate. Our pick of dining options is the bar, central to all action and cocktail mastery! Start with a Reposado Sour of Ilegal Mezcal and agave, it’s perfect with the bar menu of salt and pepper school prawns, and dainty polenta chips.

Mode Kitchen and Bar Four SeasonsStarters get more grown up – our first dish looks like a Monet oil painting of a lily pad, yet everything is reversed. A pad of creamy white local burrata is surrounded by a bright green pond of broccoli, micro florets and roasted hazelnuts. Free range chicken liver pate is perfect smeared over Poink Bakery sourdough.

Mode Kitchen & Bar_Hiramasa kingfish sashimi, sweet & sour onions, macadamiaA single tentacle of WA Freemantle octopus is a pretty sight dotted with slivers of radish on a leek and potato puree.  The WOODs fire oven is still intact and roasted spatchcock on a spicy soy sauce is all the better for a lick of flame and attitude served with a muddle of shitake mushrooms and greens. Pair it all with roasted beets, goats curd and toasted almonds or a fresh fennel orange and black olive salad and it’s a new meets old world experience we wish we had our flapper dress on for.

Mode Kitchen & Bar
Four Seasons Hotel Sydney
199 George Street Sydney
7 days, 12noon-10pm

 

 

 

 

About the author

Karen’s corporate job includes an enviable task of entertaining clients in some of the best restaurants. This ultimately sparked a curiosity 'Just how do they do that?' (she confesses she was brought up on meat and vegetables, so this was all very exciting). Currently a Mr & Mrs Smith 'Tastemaker', she’s flashpacked around the world, learning about wine, experiencing different cultures and cuisines and had a two- year love affair with it all. Originally from England, she finally settled in Australia and continues to be besotted by food, wine and travel preferring to focus on the luxury end of town (hot running water in bathrooms please).

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